Recognising Real Jade: Nephrite, Jadeite and A, B, C Treatments
"Jade" is the name of two stones, nephrite and jadeite. Types A, B and C, imitations (serpentine, dyed quartz, glass) and simple, safe tests.
Key points
| Two stones | nephrite (amphibole) and jadeite (pyroxene) |
|---|---|
| Hardness (Mohs) | nephrite 6 to 6.5; jadeite 6.5 to 7 |
| Density | nephrite about 2.9 to 3.0; jadeite about 3.3 to 3.4 |
| Treatment classification | A: untreated; B: bleached and polymer-impregnated; C: dyed; B+C: both |
| Common imitations | serpentine (bowenite), dyed quartz or quartzite, aventurine, glass, hydrogrossular |
| Sources | jadeite: Myanmar (Kachin), Guatemala; nephrite: China, Canada, Russia, New Zealand |
| Most useful test | touch, weight and texture under the magnifier; a certificate for any valuable piece |
| Cultural note | a stone of great importance in China and for the Māori (pounamu) |
Jade: two stones under one name
The word "jade" refers to two different minerals: nephrite, a calcium magnesium silicate of the amphibole family, and jadeite, a sodium aluminium silicate of the pyroxene family. Nephrite is tougher and a little softer (6 to 6.5), while jadeite is slightly harder (6.5 to 7) and denser. Both resist impact exceptionally well, thanks to their structure of interlocking fibres or grains.
Quality jadeite comes mainly from Myanmar (Kachin State, Hpakant region), Guatemala and a few other countries. Nephrite comes from China, Canada, Russia (Siberia), New Zealand (the pounamu of the Māori, a sacred and protected stone) and elsewhere. NGOs have published reports on the mining conditions for Burmese jadeite: if ethical origin matters to you, ask the seller what they know about the source.
For the difference between the two stones, see jade: nephrite, jadeite or serpentine.
The three treatment types: A, B, C
For jadeite, laboratories classify stones into types:
| Type | What it is | Detectable at home? |
|---|---|---|
| A | Untreated, apart from polishing and a thin surface wax | No, a laboratory is needed |
| B | Bleached (often with acid), then impregnated with a clear polymer to improve transparency | Sometimes clues: a "greasy" look, slightly waxy lustre, a network of microfissures under the magnifier; in practice, a laboratory (infrared spectroscopy) |
| C | Artificially dyed, for example lavender or vivid green | Colour that is too vivid and uniform, concentrated in cracks |
| B+C | Bleached, impregnated and dyed | As above; laboratory needed |
There are also doublets and triplets: a thin plate of jade glued onto a backing. Type B is not a fake: it is real jade, but its value is far lower than type A, and it must be disclosed.
Imitations
- Serpentine (including bowenite): softer (between about 2.5 and 5.5 depending on the variety), lighter, with a slightly soapy feel. It is the most common. See our page on serpentine.
- Dyed quartz or quartzite: sometimes sold as "Malaysian jade". A real stone, but not jade.
- Aventurine: a green quartz with glittering inclusions, sometimes called "Indian jade".
- Hydrogrossular: a compact green garnet, sometimes named "Transvaal jade".
- Glass and plastic: round bubbles under the magnifier, no internal structure, a different feel.
Many of these stones are fine materials sold honestly under their own names. It is the use of the word "jade" that causes confusion.
Simple, safe tests
- Weigh it in your hand. Jade is heavier than it looks, especially jadeite. A piece that is light for its size suggests serpentine or plastic.
- Touch it. Jade feels cool and smooth, never soapy or greasy.
- Look at the texture under the magnifier. Jadeite appears made of small glittering grains and gives a slight orange-peel effect on the surface; nephrite looks fibrous and felted. Glass shows round bubbles; serpentine has a softer, more uniform grain.
- Observe the colour. A green that is too vivid, a perfectly even lavender, or colour concentrated in cracks indicates dye.
- Observe the translucency. A very marked "milky" translucency and a slightly greasy look can point to type B.
- Be wary of the price. A bracelet of imperial jadeite (intense, translucent green) is expensive. A bargain price for this type of object is incompatible with good-quality jade.
Do not scrape the piece with a blade or immerse it in any acid: type B treatment is precisely carried out with acids, and a home test will not reveal it.
What these tests do not prove
None of these methods reliably distinguishes type A from type B, or jadeite from nephrite. For a valuable piece (bracelet, cabochon, antique pendant), ask for a certificate from a recognised gemmological laboratory, which will specify the species and treatments. For a decorative stone, an honest description is enough.
We state the nature of each stone and the known treatments, with photos for illustration: see our commitments. You may also read our page on jade for symbolism and care.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between nephrite and jadeite?
They are two different minerals. Jadeite is slightly harder and denser, and can show very vivid, translucent greens. Nephrite is tougher and often darker. Both are sold as "jade".
What is type B jade?
It is jadeite that has been bleached and then impregnated with a polymer to make it more transparent. It is real jade, but treated: it must be disclosed and is worth much less than type A.
How can I recognise fake jade?
Jade is heavy, cool and smooth. A piece that is light, soapy or shows round bubbles under the magnifier is probably serpentine, glass or plastic. For a valuable piece, a laboratory is needed.
Is dyed jade fake?
Type C jade is real jade that has been coloured artificially. The dye must be disclosed, as it may fade over time.
Does the scratch test work on jade?
Not reliably: jade's hardness of 6 to 7 makes the test destructive, and serpentine can seem hard depending on the variety. It is better to avoid it.
Also read
The meanings mentioned belong to tradition and symbolism. They are neither promises of results nor medical advice. Back to Recognising real stones.